My walking route finally takes me to the heart of the old town, where the heavy orange glow of the street lighting floods the crowded square. This warmth and a surprising lack of commercial lighting seek to maintain an atmosphere of traditional authenticity in the square. After a while my attention is drawn to a line of low lamps behind the closed food stalls. Here I find a secret square. It is empty apart from one homeless man busily reorganising his possessions. There is a grid of trees, bordered by two lines of oddly low street lighting. These serve to demarcate the area from the tables of the adjoining, now-closed cafes. But they provide relatively little light, creating a dark, secluded space just metres from the lit crowds in the main square. Sitting for a while the space is visited by street cleaners on their break, several more street people, a quiet couple, two security guards and a group of teenagers looking for some privacy. One of the security guard immediately moves the teenagers on. Here the absence of light has created a hidden place that attracts unwanted people and creates a space for the kind of activities the security guard is there to prevent.